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The Rice Puddings of South Asia by Nashwa Ansari
The notion of rice pudding has always been synonymous with comfort, not just in South Asia but all over the world, and thus there are countless variations of the dish. From each region originates a version with unique methods and ingredients; but the base is always the same – rice and milk. Kheer is the version I have known all my life; in Pakistan and parts of India this rice pudding is flavoured with cardamom and is set in clay pots, tasting of nostalgia and celebration. To me it is Kheer, but to others in South Asia it is Firni, Payasam, Payesh, Gil-e-Firdaus, and Sholah-e-Zard and much more. The ability to be a blank canvas for regional flavours has allowed rice puddings to be widespread across different cultures, with flavour profiles ranging from cardamom to coconut milk depending on where you are in South Asia. The combined smell of rice, milk, and cardamom always brings me back to a place of comfort and joy since Kheer was made on occasions like Eid or at celebrations like weddings, becoming a staple at festivities of all kinds.
The widespread nature of Kheer and other rice puddings have brought to light several disputes about the origins of the beloved dessert, but it is evident that Kheer has been a feature in South Asian diets dating back centuries, owing to its mention in Ayurveda. It is rumoured that the etymology of the word Kheer comes from the Sanskrit word meaning kshirika (meaning a dish prepared with milk) and is first mentioned in the fourteenth century epic poem Padmavat of Gujarat by Sufi poet Malik Muhammad Jayasi. This sweet preparation mentions the use of milk and sorghum as millets were common and accessible during that era, making it the predecessor of the beloved Kheer we know today. Another historic account suggests that Kheer originated in the Lord Jagannath Temple in Orissa nearly 2,000 years ago which was made as an offering to the Hindu gods, it is said that as this practice spread throughout Hindu temples in South Asia and variations of it came to life through regional culinary practices. Many believe that Blancmange, a rice pudding originating in the Middle Ages in Europe made from chicken, milk, rice, and sugar was a predecessor to Kheer and other rice puddings.